My Biggest Religious Encounter

MY BIGGEST RELIGIOUS ENCOUNTER

Hi All. I am back again with a new blog to share my experience as usual. But this time I am writing a non technical blog which is on my visit to Kumbh.
The Kumbh is said to be the biggest peaceful gathering in the world. I had been curious to visit it once but never got the opportunity to do so. However, this year I managed some time to witness the gathering. 

This blog is to give you some idea on the ambiance and setting of the Kumbh. With this blog, I wish to shoo away your doubts that pulls you back from giving a visit to this rendezvous.

Many of you aren't be aware of the origin of Kumbh. So, I would like to put some light on it's commencement.

ORIGIN OF KUMBH

It is believed that Lord Vishnu while carrying Amrit obtained after Samudra Manthan in the pot named Kumbh spilled few drops at 4 places which are Haridwar, Nashik, Prayag and Ujjain.

Thence they have got a religious significance and holds the fair periodically. The date and place are decided as per the Samvat calender and Jyotish. The main ceremony is held in the banks of river. The Godavari at Nasik, Sipra at Ujjain, Yamuna, Ganga and Saraswati at Prayag and Ganga at Haridwar.

At Haridwar and Prayag a Maha Kumbh is held in every 12 years and an Ardh Kumbh in 6 years. This year Prayag conducted an Ardh Kumbh.

However, our historical references tell a different story about these fair. According to historical references from 664 CE by Chinese traveler Xuanzang this ritual was organized by Emperor Shiladitya at the confluence of two rivers, in the kingdom of Prayag. He also mentioned that many hundreds of people took bath on the confluence to wash away their sins.However, this event is accounted to be held in every 5 years and not 12 years. So, far the only fair out of the 4 that seems to be the original Kumbh is the Haridwar fair, Since, it is held according to the astrological sign "Kumbha" (Aquarius), and because there are several references to a 12-year cycle for it.The earliest extant texts that contain the name "Kumbha Mela" are Khulasat-ut-Tawarikh(1695 CE) and Chahar Gulshan (1759 CE). Both these texts use the term "Kumbh Mela" to describe only Haridwar's fair, although they mention the similar fairs held in Prayag and Nashik district

THE JOURNEY BEGINS

Now, to start with my journey. I have my relatives in the city so I didn't face any difficulty with my stay. I reached Prayag on 17th Feb,2019 night and rested at my cousin's place, located near Prayag station to set for my journey next day. On 18th we left at 11AM and walked towards the Mela ground. There were free buses available for people going to the fair. After several minutes of walking I could see a mahoosive gate wonderfully decorated and announcements buzzing on speakers. I could see a sea of people walking down towards the ghats. The paths were exquisitely managed by the police men. There were public toilets and water filters available at intervals. We walked towards the ghat where people bathed. It was densely crowded. You must be thinking if I too took a bath. No, I didn't I am just accumulating my sins :D .

I learnt that the best time to bathe in the waters here is either a full moon or a new moon day. The following day was full moon day hence the expected crowd was supposed to get 2x. We walked along the bank and reached a convoy of boats. You can take a boat to go to the opposite bank of the river or sail to see the Sangam. Like every one we bargained for a suitable price.
The boat man agreed to take us for a charge of Rs 70 per person.You must be aware because they might even ask you anything around Rs 1000-2000 if they suspect you are new to the place. We rowed for almost 30 minutes and those were the best moments I have from Kumbh. The banks were also populated by some birds which migrate to this place during October every year and get back by the end of March. The smell of Ganges with Siberian birds flying around will give you a sense of divine peace. 

We rowed back and headed toward various stalls. There were stalls to propagate government projects to the masses one of them was Mudra scheme. There were free treatment champs. I got my blood group and sugar level checked.There were camps demonstrating upcoming government projects. We walked more to find yoga camps and dharmik prawachans. By then my interpretation of a fair completely changed. We walked to explore more. It was already 3 PM. We then got to the place where all kind of rides were available. There were Swing boat, Top Spin, Bumpper cars, well of death. A lot of delicacies were available as well. I tried something new. It was like dosa but much small and very different in taste as well. 

I brought a pair of glasses and some guava candies for my colleagues. It was 5 PM by then and my cousin told me that we have just covered 50% of the fair. I was broke and was in need to cash. To my utter surprise there were ATMs as well in the premise. Not only ATMs I also found temporary bank branches. I refueled my wallet and walked across the Ganges to the opposite bank. 6 temporary bridges were constructed to commute across the Ganges. On the opposite bank we found Naked Yogis(Naga Sadhus). They too have an interesting origin.

THE NAKED YOGIS

They are considered to be the followers of Lord Shiva. They take vows of celibacy, renounce societal norms and live in the Himalayas. The Naga Sadhus have earned the coveted right to take the first holy dip during the Kumbh. The entire schedule of every Kumbh snaan (or holy dip) is designed in a way that the Naga Babas are always the first to bathe in the holy waters of the Ganga, Godavari, Yamuna and Shipra.

Most of them were completely nude while some wrapped themselves in garlands.

I have always heard that they are very violent and doesn't allow people to click photos of them. However, they seemed to be the new generation sadhus. They not only let other clicked their photos but even posed. It was fun watching and capturing them. 

LETS CALL IT A DAY!

Moving ahead we checked out some stalls having works of art and craft. There were shelters in the premise for guests and we found some temporary hotels as well. We got into one of them mistakenly thinking them to be a display camp of fair. We were immediately approached by the caretaker and asked to leave. There were army camps and even a temporary court. This barren ground around the banks was converted to a complete city. Then we got back to the other bank and visited  Shree Bade Hanuman Ji temple nearby. 

There was an Akbar fort as well but it was close that day for some reasons so we couldn't peep there. The clock ticked 8 PM and we could now feel the exhaustion. We had walked for almost 8 hrs. We then walked back to our place.

So, this was my experience at Kumbh. I would urge you to give a visit to this gathering at least once in a life time. It will surely be a complete new experience for you. 

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If you wish to read more about Naga Sadhus see here